Red Basil, traditional basil, peppers, lettuce, beans and cabbage- all in containers placed throughout the gardens and on the deck. Cucumbers, garlic and thyme will be added to the selection.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Alternative Gardening : Cultivating container harvest Update from Shepherd's Cove Farm Frankford, NJ
Red Basil, traditional basil, peppers, lettuce, beans and cabbage- all in containers placed throughout the gardens and on the deck. Cucumbers, garlic and thyme will be added to the selection.
Alternative Gardening MULCH update from Shepherd's Cove Farm Frankford, NJ
What would a SHEPHERD'S COVE project be if we didn't find some way to incorporate a by-product of our main focus-sheep.
The most obvious garden benefit of our sheep production comes in the form of garden compost (but we'll spare you a photo).
Sheep manure is an excellent source of nitrogen, potash and phosphorus -three essentials to healthy plants.
*Potassium is an essential element for plant growth. Potash helps plants use water and resist drought. It promotes healthy green lawn grass and is important to food crops. Potash enhances the size of fruits and vegetables. Some think of Potassium as a plant strengthener.
*Phosphorus is vital to the growth and health of plants. It assists in converting the sun's energy and other chemicals, such as nitrogen, into usable food for plants. A phosphorus deficiency will lead to stunted, sickly looking plants that produce a lower quality fruit or flower. But phosphorus needs to be mixed with water for the plant to utilize and absorb it. Some think of Phosphorus as a plant strengthener.
*Nitrogen promotes good leaf growth-which in turn is essential for photosynthesis (how the plants make their food). Nitrogen is found in the air but must be absorbed by plants from the soil. Think of Nitrogen as your plant growth stimulator.
All three of these essential soil amendments important to garden success and are found in sheep manure-(plentiful on our farm). So adding them to the garden mix has been one way of improving our soil while utilizing one of many by-products of sheep production.
A second sheep by-product we've incorporated into this year's alternative gardening experiment is sheep wool mulch.
Sheep's wool absorbs approximately 30 % of it's weight in moisture and helps keep ground temperature consistent. We've examined studies which looked at sheep's wool as both a mulch and for it's potential benefits as a weed barrier. We found the results to date could help meet our objectives so we're giving it a try.
In this totally unscientific study, we've planted one row of green beans and one row of beets-sown directly in compost treated soil.
Thick wool roving (wool that has been washed and combed into a smooth long strand) has been placed around the outer edges of the garden rows.
Wool roving has also been spread around the seed holes. Oat Straw covers the wool roving to keep it in place and discourage garden visitors from stealing it away as nesting material.
We hope to see a reduction in the need to water as frequently, faster germination time, lower weed rates and maybe even an impact on the garden slug population.
We'll keep you posted on the process and project as things develop.
The most obvious garden benefit of our sheep production comes in the form of garden compost (but we'll spare you a photo).
Sheep manure is an excellent source of nitrogen, potash and phosphorus -three essentials to healthy plants.
*Potassium is an essential element for plant growth. Potash helps plants use water and resist drought. It promotes healthy green lawn grass and is important to food crops. Potash enhances the size of fruits and vegetables. Some think of Potassium as a plant strengthener.
*Phosphorus is vital to the growth and health of plants. It assists in converting the sun's energy and other chemicals, such as nitrogen, into usable food for plants. A phosphorus deficiency will lead to stunted, sickly looking plants that produce a lower quality fruit or flower. But phosphorus needs to be mixed with water for the plant to utilize and absorb it. Some think of Phosphorus as a plant strengthener.
*Nitrogen promotes good leaf growth-which in turn is essential for photosynthesis (how the plants make their food). Nitrogen is found in the air but must be absorbed by plants from the soil. Think of Nitrogen as your plant growth stimulator.
All three of these essential soil amendments important to garden success and are found in sheep manure-(plentiful on our farm). So adding them to the garden mix has been one way of improving our soil while utilizing one of many by-products of sheep production.
A second sheep by-product we've incorporated into this year's alternative gardening experiment is sheep wool mulch.
Sheep's wool absorbs approximately 30 % of it's weight in moisture and helps keep ground temperature consistent. We've examined studies which looked at sheep's wool as both a mulch and for it's potential benefits as a weed barrier. We found the results to date could help meet our objectives so we're giving it a try.
In this totally unscientific study, we've planted one row of green beans and one row of beets-sown directly in compost treated soil.
Thick wool roving (wool that has been washed and combed into a smooth long strand) has been placed around the outer edges of the garden rows.
Wool roving has also been spread around the seed holes. Oat Straw covers the wool roving to keep it in place and discourage garden visitors from stealing it away as nesting material.
We hope to see a reduction in the need to water as frequently, faster germination time, lower weed rates and maybe even an impact on the garden slug population.
We'll keep you posted on the process and project as things develop.
Turning Traditional Gardening on it's head: Alternative gardening update from Shepherd's Cove Farm, Frankford NJ
TURNING TRADITIONAL GARDENING ON IT'S HEAD
What if you don't have ANY garden space available for planting? Can you still grow some fresh veggies for your table and to share? We're told the answer is YES and are giving it a try.
WHY IT WORKS
Plants respond to light direction. This is called "Phototropism". Phototropism is directional growth which is determined by the direction of the light source. In other words, it is the growth and response to a light stimulus. Some plants will grow toward the light- others will grow away from the light.
For our UPSIDE DOWN experiment we used a patio tomato plant. The plant will extend its growth toward the sun-so although the plant itself is upside down, new growth is extending upward. And so far-so good. The real question is whether the weight of the tomatoes will weaken the vine and cause the plant to drop or the vines to break. Time will tell, but for now our UPSIDE DOWN TOMATO plant seems to be doing just fine.
HOW TO BEGIN
We purchased a "tomato bag" from a local nursery and followed the easy to assemble directions. The bag actually was "easy to assemble" which was great!
POTTING SOIL
We selected an enriched potting soil for this project-one with time released commercial fertilizer already added to the mix (we're taking every advantage we can find to ensure success). We filled the bag as per the manufacturer's instructions but have noticed the soil has compacted. We will be adding a little more potting soil as needed.
PLANT SELECTION
Our choice of patio tomato was based on the tendency of this plant to get bushy rather than leggy. This should make it easier to offer support if the vines become to heavy. We purchased our tomato plant from a local grower who knows plants and had started and cared for the young seedling on site.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
Veggies need a sunny location to grow well. We found no suitable place to suspend the bag in the front gardens (which receive the best sun) so we got a bit creative and suspended the bag from a clothesline at the back of the house. Using the clothesline to suspend the bag allows us to keep the plant in the sun for longer periods of time simply by sliding it across the clothesline. We're keeping an eye on the sun pattern as the season progresses and may change location if this doesn't seem to be doing the trick.
CARE
Upside down plants need a bit more watering than other container gardens. Because the roots are closer to the surface of the container, we water with a little extra care so the roots don't become damaged by the force of the water. The container has a plastic lid with a center hole at the top. When watering your plant pour the water onto the rim of the plastic lid and let it drip gently onto the root system.
Initially, the plant looks a bit odd hanging upside down, but as the leaves and new growth begin to seek the sun, it's actually looking better!
What if you don't have ANY garden space available for planting? Can you still grow some fresh veggies for your table and to share? We're told the answer is YES and are giving it a try.
WHY IT WORKS
Plants respond to light direction. This is called "Phototropism". Phototropism is directional growth which is determined by the direction of the light source. In other words, it is the growth and response to a light stimulus. Some plants will grow toward the light- others will grow away from the light.
HOW TO BEGIN
We purchased a "tomato bag" from a local nursery and followed the easy to assemble directions. The bag actually was "easy to assemble" which was great!
POTTING SOIL
We selected an enriched potting soil for this project-one with time released commercial fertilizer already added to the mix (we're taking every advantage we can find to ensure success). We filled the bag as per the manufacturer's instructions but have noticed the soil has compacted. We will be adding a little more potting soil as needed.
PLANT SELECTION
Our choice of patio tomato was based on the tendency of this plant to get bushy rather than leggy. This should make it easier to offer support if the vines become to heavy. We purchased our tomato plant from a local grower who knows plants and had started and cared for the young seedling on site.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
CARE
Upside down plants need a bit more watering than other container gardens. Because the roots are closer to the surface of the container, we water with a little extra care so the roots don't become damaged by the force of the water. The container has a plastic lid with a center hole at the top. When watering your plant pour the water onto the rim of the plastic lid and let it drip gently onto the root system.
Initially, the plant looks a bit odd hanging upside down, but as the leaves and new growth begin to seek the sun, it's actually looking better!
Alternative Gardening Straw Bale Gardening update from Shepherd's Cove Farm, NJ
Welcome to our alternative gardening"laboratory"-Shepherd's Cove Farm. As members of the Sussex County Board of Agriculture and strong supporters of the SCBOA/ PLANT A ROW for the hungry initiative we decided to become a "test" zone for the many different ways to grow fresh food without planting directly into the soil.
Like many small farm families in NJ's Agricultural mosaic, our farm operation is one element of our day to day. The family also works off the farm and balancing it all leaves little time for tending a robust traditional summer garden. Believe me we've tried-but somehow the weeds,watering and time needed to care for the plants just can't be found. We know that's true for many folks outside of the farming community as well-so we're excited to see if these "alternative gardening" ideas can actually perform to the standards of cutting labor, time and effort while still producing enough for our table and for sharing with a neighbor in need.
So with great enthusiasm, armed with a ton of research and a little help from our farmer friends we were ready.
We couldn't resist the urge to begin our alternative gardening experiment - perhaps a bit earlier (mid May) than was wise. An unusual late season frost had us carrying our container pots in and out of the garage to protect the tender plants from damage. Those in the know also suggested putting a light cover over early plantings that were in established garden beds. Their sage advice helped protect our project from serious set backs- Our thanks to the local farmers for their expert advice and support in this effort!
LESSON 1: KNOW YOUR ZONE
Sussex County NJ is a zone 6 planting area. We're told the threat of frost passed by the end of May- so Memorial Day weekend we'll be hosting a "planting party" and finishing off our edible landscape integrations. Before you begin any planting project, know your planting zone-then check out what plants thrive in that zone environment. Spoil and air temperature affect a plant's health and growth. Short growing seasons call for plants with shorter maturity times-this avoids a lot of disappointment in the garden and provides second opportunity to add cool season crops like peas, cabbage and lettuce back into your garden.
USING STRAW BALES as a garden medium.
We've elected to try out gardening in 2 straw bales and have chosen a spot in the front garden beds. These beds are traditionally filled with flowers (and a few too many weeds). The height of the straw bales adds some interest to the garden space. The veggies that will be planted in them will add some variety (and a snack factor-which makes for a delightful treat when weeding!)
LESSON 2: WHAT TO (and NOT) To USE
To establish a straw bale garden you will need to acquire...a bale of straw! But not all straw is made equally. Straw is made from harvesting grain plants such as oats or wheat. Though a few residual grain seeds may sprout up on your straw bale- they are easy to remove.
*DO NOT USE MULCH HAY for bale gardening- the field seeds will sprout creating a weeding issue.
HITTING THE RIGHT SPOT
Once you've purchased your straw bales, you will need to choose a location that offers plenty of sunlight for the plants you'll be selecting. Veggies usually do best with 6 hours of sunlight.
LESSON 3: Wet bales are almost impossible to move so choose your location wisely-your bale garden will be staying put for awhile. Straw bales will last for one to two planting seasons before turning to mulch- which can then be added to other garden spots to enrich the soil.
CHOOSING THE PLANTS
We purchase locally grown plants from local growers. Farmers and nurserymen have tended the seedlings and carefully produce the healthiest, hardiest young plants for their customers. Their knowledge and expertise is a benefit and helpful advantage to the novice gardener(and we'll take all the advantage we can get).
HOW TO POSITION THE STRAW BALE
Lay out your straw bale configuration and be sure the baling twine isn't touching the ground. This will keep the twine from decaying too quickly but also positions the flakes of straw in a manner that makes it easier to insert the plants.
SEASONING THE BALE
Once your bales are in place begin a 7 day wetting program. Saturate your straw bales with water once daily. This will start up the biological process that breaks down the straw (and feeds your plants). The bale will "heat up" at the beginning of the process but will then cool and be ready to welcome the plants.
Shepherd's Cove is now in day 6 of the wetting program and looking forward to the next step- selecting and planting our veggies!
Two straw bales have been added to the front garden area which gets plenty of sunshine. The bales have been seasoned by watering daily for 7 days- they will soon be top dressed and ready for planting.
Like many small farm families in NJ's Agricultural mosaic, our farm operation is one element of our day to day. The family also works off the farm and balancing it all leaves little time for tending a robust traditional summer garden. Believe me we've tried-but somehow the weeds,watering and time needed to care for the plants just can't be found. We know that's true for many folks outside of the farming community as well-so we're excited to see if these "alternative gardening" ideas can actually perform to the standards of cutting labor, time and effort while still producing enough for our table and for sharing with a neighbor in need.
So with great enthusiasm, armed with a ton of research and a little help from our farmer friends we were ready.
We couldn't resist the urge to begin our alternative gardening experiment - perhaps a bit earlier (mid May) than was wise. An unusual late season frost had us carrying our container pots in and out of the garage to protect the tender plants from damage. Those in the know also suggested putting a light cover over early plantings that were in established garden beds. Their sage advice helped protect our project from serious set backs- Our thanks to the local farmers for their expert advice and support in this effort!
LESSON 1: KNOW YOUR ZONE
Sussex County NJ is a zone 6 planting area. We're told the threat of frost passed by the end of May- so Memorial Day weekend we'll be hosting a "planting party" and finishing off our edible landscape integrations. Before you begin any planting project, know your planting zone-then check out what plants thrive in that zone environment. Spoil and air temperature affect a plant's health and growth. Short growing seasons call for plants with shorter maturity times-this avoids a lot of disappointment in the garden and provides second opportunity to add cool season crops like peas, cabbage and lettuce back into your garden.
USING STRAW BALES as a garden medium.
We've elected to try out gardening in 2 straw bales and have chosen a spot in the front garden beds. These beds are traditionally filled with flowers (and a few too many weeds). The height of the straw bales adds some interest to the garden space. The veggies that will be planted in them will add some variety (and a snack factor-which makes for a delightful treat when weeding!)
LESSON 2: WHAT TO (and NOT) To USE
To establish a straw bale garden you will need to acquire...a bale of straw! But not all straw is made equally. Straw is made from harvesting grain plants such as oats or wheat. Though a few residual grain seeds may sprout up on your straw bale- they are easy to remove.
*DO NOT USE MULCH HAY for bale gardening- the field seeds will sprout creating a weeding issue.
HITTING THE RIGHT SPOT
Once you've purchased your straw bales, you will need to choose a location that offers plenty of sunlight for the plants you'll be selecting. Veggies usually do best with 6 hours of sunlight.
LESSON 3: Wet bales are almost impossible to move so choose your location wisely-your bale garden will be staying put for awhile. Straw bales will last for one to two planting seasons before turning to mulch- which can then be added to other garden spots to enrich the soil.
CHOOSING THE PLANTS
We purchase locally grown plants from local growers. Farmers and nurserymen have tended the seedlings and carefully produce the healthiest, hardiest young plants for their customers. Their knowledge and expertise is a benefit and helpful advantage to the novice gardener(and we'll take all the advantage we can get).
HOW TO POSITION THE STRAW BALE
Lay out your straw bale configuration and be sure the baling twine isn't touching the ground. This will keep the twine from decaying too quickly but also positions the flakes of straw in a manner that makes it easier to insert the plants.
SEASONING THE BALE
Once your bales are in place begin a 7 day wetting program. Saturate your straw bales with water once daily. This will start up the biological process that breaks down the straw (and feeds your plants). The bale will "heat up" at the beginning of the process but will then cool and be ready to welcome the plants.
Shepherd's Cove is now in day 6 of the wetting program and looking forward to the next step- selecting and planting our veggies!
Two straw bales have been added to the front garden area which gets plenty of sunshine. The bales have been seasoned by watering daily for 7 days- they will soon be top dressed and ready for planting.
Testing out Alternative Gardening
Straw bale gardening, growing veggies in containers, no dig potatoes, upside down tomato plants...do these ideas actually ease some of the back breaking labor and weeding time that's part of traditional gardening- but still produce a robust harvest?
SCBOA member farm Shepherd's Cove has volunteered to give some of these methods a try and update us on their progress, success and failures throughout the season.
Follow along as *Shepherd's Cove tests out alternative gardening ideas designed for small spaces, decks, apartments or virtually anywhere there's a little space and sun. Better yet-why not join in the experiment? Share and compare your results- and then share some of YOUR harvest through the SCBOA/PLANT A ROW for the Hungry program. You can register right here by clicking on the Plant a Row icon.
*Shepherd's Cove farm raises fiber sheep and lamb and fiber products like hand spun yarns and wool rovings. While the folks at Shepherd's Cover are great at raising livestock, they want you to know they are NOT "green thumb" experts (generally relying on the local farmers and Farmer's Markets to provide the Bounty of Sussex County harvest for their own table).
SCBOA member farm Shepherd's Cove has volunteered to give some of these methods a try and update us on their progress, success and failures throughout the season.
Follow along as *Shepherd's Cove tests out alternative gardening ideas designed for small spaces, decks, apartments or virtually anywhere there's a little space and sun. Better yet-why not join in the experiment? Share and compare your results- and then share some of YOUR harvest through the SCBOA/PLANT A ROW for the Hungry program. You can register right here by clicking on the Plant a Row icon.
*Shepherd's Cove farm raises fiber sheep and lamb and fiber products like hand spun yarns and wool rovings. While the folks at Shepherd's Cover are great at raising livestock, they want you to know they are NOT "green thumb" experts (generally relying on the local farmers and Farmer's Markets to provide the Bounty of Sussex County harvest for their own table).
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